25 Cookson St
Camberwell, VIC 3124
(03) 9813 1894
As Melbournians’ tastes continue to evolve, the average Pizza Hut pizza no longer cuts it. We incresingly are demanding more ‘authentic’ Italian pizzas – thin crust, wood fired, and made with the best ingredients. So when a place opens in Camberwell declaring itself Boss Pizzeria, it’s a bold statement.
Siblings Julien and Monique Moussi, the same team behind Collective Espresso, 30 Mill, Annoying Brother and My Other Brother opened Boss Pizzeria earlier this year. “We took over the space without really knowing what we wanted to do,” says Julien. “We didn’t want to do a cafe, because Collective is only a few doors down.”And so they decided, with the help of friend Ricky Giammario (Bimbo Deluxe, Basilico and Blue Train Cafe), to try their hand at pizza making.
With only 11 seats, the space is tiny, though a generaous sidewalk area out front seats 30 more. Perhaps it is the limited space that dictates the short and succint menu. There’s an antipasto selection, a couple of salads, but the bulk of the menu is pizza, which is why they installed a takeaway window to one side, reducing the amount of foot traffic.
With this in mind, it’s no real surprise that the other dishes feel as though they play second fiddle to the pizzas. The antipasto feels like an afterthought, as though foraged from items used to make the pizzas. This may not be an all out bad thing when you use great ingredients, but it certainly could do with more thought.
The caprese salad too is nice enough, but doesn’t leave an impression. The mozarella is beautifully fresh, but the tomatoes are unremarkable, and the addition of olives unnecessary.
But once you skip past the starters you will find what this place is really all about: really good pizza. The menu has all the classics: margerita, napolitana and capriccoiosa, but also has a few of the boss’ own creations: the agnello (slow cooked lamb, tomato, goats cheese, roast capsicum, pistachios and gremolata); the pancetta e gamberi (bacon, prawns, tomatoes, goats cheese and maple syrup); and the zucca (pumpkin, fior di latte, tomatoes, pine nuts, spinach, rocket and basil), the sight of which makes evident why there’s no love left for the starters: it’s all gone into making the pizzas.
With summer just around the corner, Boss Pizzeria is just the spot to pick up a wood fired pizza and sit in the lingering sunshine. After the recent sale of Firechief and what some consider to be to the decline of it’s menu, it looks like there’s a new pizza boss in town.